Return To Splendor- Jasper Multi Pitch Question

[Julie Morter]

Julie Morter

June 21, 2016 at 11:02 #13390

Has anyone climbed this route? If so, do you have a better description or any pictures for the 4th pitch?
Adrian and I attempted it this past Saturday (June 18th). On the 4th pitch I tried a wide variety of directions, all of which failed to get me to anchors, a ledge, or even somewhere to build an anchor. After down climbing several sections of 5.7 trad to avoid leaving gear, running into someones super sketchy bail setup, and running out of water, Adrian and I also bailed from the bolt belay in the gully.
We figure I was about the right distance up (based on rope out), but I couldn’t find anchors. The description talks about ‘continuing on good rock to a belay on a ledge’. I found a lot of good rock and a lot of ledges…
For anyone who hasn’t done this route, a note of warning. The guidebook states that it gets hot and boy does it ever! The forecast was a high of 20 and we still ran out of water and bailed. We figured we would have needed 6! liters of water to handle the temperature. Granted Adrian and I are both polar bears, but it was way warmer than expected. We have this listed as a late September/early October climb now!

Other notes for those who are interested
The road in is ROUGH. Definitely high clearance needed. I didn’t need 4WD, but if it had rained recently, you might.
Right now a tree is down before the fork, adding about 45 minutes to the already epic approach
Getting past the train tunnel involved swimming through rose bushes. Pretty much the only thing on that hill is rose bushes and Adrian and I were picking them out of our legs for 2 days.
The fence above the train tracks on the far side of the tunnel is electrified

[Nicole Morter]

Nicole Morter

June 28, 2016 at 10:14 #13405

The way you’ve written this makes me wonder how you found out that the fence was electrified…