Getting a jump on Ice Review, the Women’s Climbing Mentorship Group+ spent last Saturday Jan. 6/18, leading & mock-leading at the upper Junkyards. The waterfall from the dam was majestic and the ice in the midst of it produced some terrifying sounds while we were there. We were expecting crowds on this first balmy Saturday of the new year – and we found them, but mostly at the lower-junkyards, where a guided course was running.
We had the upper junkyards almost entirely to ourselves for the whole day. (We ran into Susan & Luke who were multi-pitching on the left-hand end, and a guided party came by to climb a single lap & then headed out again). 2 Large trees on the right-hand side and a bolted station on the left provided great TR anchors for mock leads (on the right this could be reached by simply walking around) and the low-angle ice provided good first-lead opportunities. The ice quality was mixed – with thin areas as well as questionable sections where large ice slabs sat over snow.