By Allan Main
I have often looked at the Crowfoot Glacier when driving south from Bow Summit. It seems like a place that is viewed thousands of times, but yet not very easily accessed. Chuck Young and I decided to do a little exploring and see if we could find a reasonable approach route. In 2021 we ventured across the chilly Bow River and up a series of ledges and short rock steps to gain the glacier. Fast forwarding to 2024, we were able to share this route with a small of group and had a great day out! In June 2024, our team included Allan, Chuck, Vi P, Diane C, Ken B, Mike D.
Route:
Park several hundred metres south of the Crowfoot Glacier Viewpoint.
Follow trail down to the outlet of Bow Lake and wade across the knee-deep river.
Follow the edge of the lake about 500m to a large outflow stream, and head upstream (poor/no trail) into the basin below the glacier. From here, you have two distinct choices: along the moraine to your left or across the basin floor. If you follow the moraine, you will have 300 m of side hilling to gain the correct chute below the buttress. If you use the basin floor, you will have to gain the requisite elevation directly up the scree.
Whichever route you choose, you need to climb the chute until you can exit right onto Daffy’s upper bill. Move right along the length of the bill to the crest of the buttress (cairn). Then the buttress can be readily climbed, using scree ledges and easy rock steps. There is one 6 m rock step that we would grade at 5.3 (small rap station at its top). The glacier is reached shortly after this step.
With standard glacier travel precautions, it is readily climbed passing a large white/cream rock exposed in the ice. It is not difficult to travel to the crest, where a splendid view towards Hector and the Lake Louise group can be found.
When you return the same way, you may wish to rappel the technical rock step. Allow about 8-10 hours for the full tour.
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